Sorry to channel Andy Rooney, but it seems like the definition of “appointment” has changed in the last few years. Used to be so simple: Make an 11:30 a.m. date with a doctor; explain the problem; rag on the doc for getting her new-drug information from biased pharmaceutical reps rather than medical journals, but accept a bunch of free samples anyway; put your clothes back on; find your car; and you’re chowing down by 12:45 at the latest.
These days you’re lucky if you’ve even seen the doctor by 12:45, and by then she just wants to talk about the fresh rash all over your body. That’s assuming that, like Chow, Baby, you’re physically allergic to smooth jazz.
So now a very hungry Chow, Baby needs (1) a good, quick lunch place open past 2p.m. that (2) doesn’t play waiting-room music and, what with doctor bills and last week’s double rib-eyes, is (3) cheap. That would be friendly, folksy Charlie Braun’s (105 S. Bowen Rd., Arlington), which just extended its hours to 7 a.m.-7 p.m.
Mon-Sat and which pipes in music that Chow, Baby is shocked to learn, when the station ID comes on, is now considered “oldies.” The building, a former Taco Bell, prompts expectations of fast, inexpensive, mediocre food, but Charlie’s hits only two out of three. It’s pretty quick and fairly cheap, but Charlie’s hamburger (6 oz. $3.49) is juicy and grill-flavored, the hand-breaded chicken-fried steak ($6.99 with two sides) is tender and crispy-edged, and the Philly-style cheesesteak ($5.29) is piled high with good meat and nicely sautéed peppers and onions.
All this homestyle goodness raised Chow, Baby’s expectations, but Charlie Braun’s went and beat them again: first with fresh-sliced, fresh-fried potato chips (on the side with most sandwiches, or $1.50 a la carte), over which you may shake a powdered seasoning such as garlic parmesan or jalapeño; then, the grand finale, hot apple cobbler ($1.50), bubbly and gooey and intoxicatingly cinnamonny. Funny – as Chow, Baby remembers it, that was just what the doctor ordered.
Chips Ahoy
Chow, Baby likes this new homemade-potato-chip trend we seem to have going. At sleek, metro-décor’d Loafin Joe’s (2711 W. Berry St.), the fresh, hot chips come in plain, ranch, and sweet potato ($1.89), and they’re highly addictive. Of course they go great with any of Loafin Joe’s three dozen toasted-sub variations, from classic to inventive, all on freshmade bread (white, wheat, or rye) or low-carb tortilla wrap. Chow, Baby picked a wholly satisfying Trinity Trojan ($5.79), figuring that the sprouts and the 96-percent-fat-free turkey would more than make up, healthwise, for the cream cheese, bacon, and guacamole. (Actually, there are plenty of “heart smart” options, if you must.)
Pizzas (starting with the $3.79 individual size) and salads ($3.25-$7.49) also come in a daunting number of varieties; thankfully, counterservers are patient and supportive. With help, Chow, Baby decided on a large scoop of fresh-tasting chicken salad ($5.99) that rested on an actual salad, with tomatoes even, and choice of housemade dressings (tangy-sweet honey mustard, yummy). Loafin Joe’s makes just about everything it can fresh in-house every day, which shows in the flavors but, strangely, not in the prices. Budget-friendly quick meals that darn near taste homemade – not a new trend, but one Chow, Baby is sure glad to see spreading.
Contact Chow, Baby at chowbaby@fwweekly.com.
Charlie Braun’s 105 S. Bowen Rd., Arlington. 817-548-3180. Homestyle breakfast and lunch in a former Taco Bell, but the resemblance ends there. $
Loafin Joe’s 2711 W. Berry St., 817-922-0991. TCU-area sandwich shop makes it own bread, then piles it high with an astounding choice of ingredients. Pizza and salads too. $
Mama E’s Bar-B-Q & Home Cooking 818 E Rosedale St, FW. 817-877-3322. Ultra-casual yet confident and satisfying, this family-owned operation serves up reliably tasty beef, pork, ribs, and sides available by the sandwich, the plate, and the pound. Make sure and try the turkey leg. $
