Rustic Grace

Copper Creek gets decent marks overall but fails at labeling.
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Posted May 22, 2013 by EDWARD BROWN in Eats
As this blackberry cobbler indicates, dessert at Copper Creek is a hit. Lee ChastainAs this blackberry cobbler indicates, dessert at Copper Creek is a hit. Lee Chastain

A lot of Tarrant County restaurants claim to be “Texas fine dining,” and a few of them, like Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine, Lonesome Dove Bistro, and Reata Restaurant, actually make good on it. At other places, the bar isn’t set quite so high — the cooks just add shrimp to grits or use chipotle seasoning in some novel way. Copper Creek Restaurant lands somewhere in between, with interesting, tasty food; great service; and classy décor but without the consistent attention to detail that really elevates you into the “fine” atmosphere.

The surroundings give diners reason to believe that the drive to Weatherford was worth it. Custom woodwork, marble countertops, antler chandeliers, and deer heads on the walls provide a sumptuous Texas feel.

Our meal started with a unique appetizer: the Cowboy Bruschetta, which was actually glorified beef nachos. Everything was fine –– the tangy guacamole, fresh pico de gallo, scoop of creamy goat cheese, and four thick, fried tortilla shells –– but the generous slices of prime rib were cold.

The asparagus salad really lived up to the fine-dining label, though there wasn’t much “Texas” about it. Fresh, earthy, mixed baby greens; crisp grilled asparagus spears; bacon crumbles; and yet another scoop of that goat cheese melded pleasantly under waves of reduced balsamic vinegar.

The grammatically tenuous “green chili chicken cordon” reinforced the suspicion that more than a couple of Copper Creek’s dishes aren’t Texan at all –– Monte Cristos, grilled mahi-mahi, and lemon-pepper-crusted calamari lack that certain Texan je ne se quoi, no? Regardless, the juicy, tender, fried chicken breast was scrumptious. However, the sides –– weak sauce, pasty mashed potatoes, and shriveled pieces of corn –– tasted as if little or no thought went into them.

As good as the entrée was, it didn’t compare to dessert, specifically the almond praline pie. That simple name doesn’t do this dish justice. A tower of chilled cheesecake and whipped cream sat atop a thick, buttery graham cracker crust, all of it adorned with sliced almonds, coconut flakes, and a thick caramel drizzle. Not only was it delicious, but the serving was big enough for about four people.

The service at Copper Creek was impeccable. The staffers were delightful and glad to chat about anything, from the recent weather to in-depth descriptions of the food. At one point, a passing waiter from another section stopped to give my guest and me a new set of freshly folded hand towels. The staffers are also quick to refresh your complimentary basket of steaming hot bread (served with savory, chive-infused butter).

Though the menu lacks any real variety (sorry, vegetarian friends) and the prices are a little steep, Copper Creek is definitely Texan in one particularly Texan way: The portions are huge.

 

Copper Creek Restaurant

216 W I-20, Weatherford. 817-599-3977. 11am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri-Sat. All major credit cards are accepted.

Cowboy Bruschetta ………..   $8

Asparagus salad …………….   $6

Green chili chicken cordon . $16

Almond praline pie …………..   $8

 


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