Simple, Effective

Greasy Bend Burgers could use a little more creativity, but the sammies hit the spot.
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Posted July 23, 2014 by EDWARD BROWN in Eats
The sandwiches, like this bacon cheeseburger, aren’t fancy, but they are tasty and very wallet-friendly. Brian HutsonThe sandwiches, like this bacon cheeseburger, aren’t fancy, but they are tasty and very wallet-friendly. Brian Hutson

If you haven’t visited the Race Street area in a few years, you might not recognize it. The neighborhood has been undergoing a lot of revitalization recently and is now home to a handful of progressive art spaces, chic lofts, and new restaurants. One recent addition is Greasy Bend Burgers, offering a potent selection of sandwiches and burgers but, unfortunately, not much else.

The dining room is pretty plain, just several tables, three largely blank walls, and large storefront windows. After a guest and I placed our order, two friendly cooks happily chatted with us while our food was prepared directly behind the counter.

The BLT was straightforward but tasty. A generous mound of crispy bacon topped by lettuce and tomato arrived between two appropriately greasy slices of toasted white bread, each slathered with mayonnaise. The tomatoes and shreds of romaine were fresh and firm, and the salty, hickory-flavored bacon and savory, tangy mayo made this anything but a boring sammy.

The bacon cheeseburger with jalapeños was equally non-fussy and equally delectable. (Other add-ons are avocado, mushrooms, and grilled onions.) Dressed with lettuce, pickles, and chopped onions on a toasted wheat bun, the juicy quarter-pound patty was steaming hot. From Greasy Bend’s tiny selection of sides (just chips or fries), the fries were hand-cut, thick, and delicious.

One sandwich that wasn’t so impressive was the grilled cheese. It wasn’t missing anything per se, and it was appropriately gooey and flavorful, but its size was more fitting for an elementary school student than an adult. And anything other than plain white bread would have been preferable.

The chili cheeseburger with American cheese, though, took the dining experience to another level. A piquant blend of grilled onions and peppery chili oozed over every inch of the quarter-pound patty. Each bite had a nice kick that was tempered by the mild cheese.

Replacing the beef on the veggie burger was a hefty, lightly grilled portobello mushroom. Meat substitutes can go in a dozen different directions, but portobello has a natural meaty flavor, and Greasy Bend’s was superb.

Not every burger joint needs to be Rodeo Goat, but a few of Greasy Bend’s items could have benefited from a little creativity. The service was top-notch, however, and for the price, you’ll get more great food than you can handle.

 

Greasy Bend Burgers

2919 Race St, FW. 817-222-0184. 10am-3pm Mon-Sat. All major credit cards accepted.

Bacon-cheeseburger w/jalapeños $5.30

BLT …………………………………………. $3.50

Chili cheeseburger ……………………. $4.95

Veggie burger ………………………….. $3.95

Grilled cheese ………………………….. $2.50

 


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