Chow, Baby

Whatever Will Be

Chow, Baby
The Fort Worth restaurant biz is a cruel villain sitting in a swivel chair stroking a hairless cat. It gets in the right lane at a traffic light and doesn’t turn. It flushes the toilet while you’re in the shower. And what...


The Quest for Eggsellence

Chow, Baby
Sometimes you just want a badass egg salad sandwich. At least I occasionally do. But Fort Worth isn’t exactly New York. You can’t just walk down to the local deli and find a well-seasoned, perfectly creamy egg salad on rye....


Chicken-Fried Redemption

Chow, Baby
When sports writers use the word “enigmatic” to describe an athlete, that’s usually code for someone who had the world by the cajones but continually, inexplicably made career-damaging mistakes. I’ve heard that word use...

Photo by Steve Steward

Cheddar’s is for the ’Burbs

Chow, Baby
Until recently, my only impression of Cheddar’s Casual Café (1937 Airport Fwy, Bedford, 817-540-0778) came from a friend of mine who used to work for the company. He was a manager at one of the chain’s many area restaurant...


Chow, Baby Schaden-fried

Chow, Baby
I couldn’t help but feel guilty as I sat in the massive dining room of Chop House Burgers (2230 Park Row Dr., 817-459-3700). I was gripping one of the strip mall eatery’s admittedly delicious namesake burgers like it was a ...


The West 7th Vortex

Chow, Baby
Restaurants come and go. That’s just the nature of the business. I’ve worked in and have written about the biz long enough to know not to get too attached to a place. But every once in awhile I’m taken aback when I hear t...

Ol’ South Pancake House, 1509 S University Dr, FW. 817-336-0311.

You Can’t Go Home (Fries) Again

Chow, Baby
After college, I spent a lot of time trying to unlearn some things from the bottom of a rocks glass in local taverns. When the bars closed, there was really only one option for after-hours dining: Ol’ South Pancake House (150...


Like the Grave, Bella Italia West Beckons

Chow, Baby
The first time I ever walked into Bella Italia West (5139 Camp Bowie Blvd., 817-738-1700), the year was 1990-something, and I was a senior in high school. Even then, it was like eating in God’s waiting room. The crowd was as ...

The Avoca coffee and chocolate pot de crème was thick and decadent. Photo by Brian Hutson.

DFW Restaurant Week: From Clay to Grace

Chow, Baby
I usually never partake in DFW Restaurant Week. As a reviewer, I try to seek out cuisine that readers can try themselves. Since the Restaurant Week menus are only temporary, and since this is a weekly column, I’ve never seen ...

Among the offerings on Vivo 53’s menu, the wood-fired pizza and signature chopped salad get the highest marks. Robert Garner

Viva, La Vivo

Chow, Baby
It struck me as I walked into Vivo 53 (525 Taylor St., 855-216-2378) that this city has quietly built a small but solid stable of upscale pizza restaurants. Not too long ago, the only place you could get pizza outside of Domino...