La Poblana rewards adventurous diners with distinct regional cuisine. Photo by Lee Chastain.

No Frills Mexican

La Poblana specializes in regional cuisine that doesn’t cater to gringos.
According to legend, the nuns panicked when they were told to expect a visit from the archbishop. They had nothing suitable to serve such a distinguished guest. In desperation, the cloistered women prayed for guidance, and an a...

“The heirloom vegetable salad was an impeccable mélange of textures and flavors.” Photo by Lee Chastain.

Pressed for Time

Chef Felipe Armenta’s third try has a few kinks to work out.
At 11:30 a.m. on a sunny Saturday morning, the hostess at Press Café indicated an inside table for two would be available in 45 minutes to an hour. Seating options include about two dozen tables inside, an upstairs patio that ...

The Aguillon Brothers serve New Mexican flowers in Tex-Mex country. Photo by Ryan Burger.

Menu of Enchantment

La Choza Fine Food brings outstanding New Mexican cuisine to Fort Worth.
North Texans’ love for New Mexico runs deep, but the cuisine of the Land of Enchantment is woefully absent from the Fort Worth restaurant scene. True, you can get roasted Hatch chile by the bucketful for a few weeks every yea...

The buffet at Andalous Mediterranean Grill includes all of the staples of Lebanese cuisine. Photo by Lee Chastain.

The World on a Tray

Andalous Mediterranean Grill offers some Lebanese greatness, mess hall-style.
Laurie James
Regional variations of Mediterranean cooking produce a seemingly endless variety of slightly different spins on basic staple ingredients ­­­­–– chickpeas, eggplant, sharp white cheese, and a variety of meats (usually no...

The Swiss Pastry Shop’s new dinner menu features Alpen macaroni (left) and classic wienerschnitzel. Photo by Lee Chastain.

Building on Tradition

The venerable Swiss Pastry Shop is open for dinner.
The sad truth is that many of the family-run institutions we’ve known and loved aren’t around anymore. Times and tastes have changed, and there is a long list of now-defunct bakeries and restaurants that looked like they ha...

Twelve Stones’ pot de créme is a delicately caramel-flavored pudding with crystals of sea salt.  Photo courtesy of 12 Stones.

A Stone’s Throw

Twelve Stones aspires to greatness and comes quite close.
Laurie James
You have to admire a second-career chef  –– someone who loves food so much that he would ditch a successful IT career for the grueling pace of running a kitchen. Twelve Stones’ chef-owner David Burdick went to culinary s...

The sweet tea chicken had a pleasant, herbal flavor. Photo by Vishal Malhotra.

Too Old School

Chef Blythe’s Southern Bistro plays it safe.
My guest and I arrived at Chef Blythe’s Southern Bistro on a Thursday evening just as dinner service was beginning to wind down. The suburban space in North Richland Hills is bright and clean with high ceilings and concrete f...

There’s not a deli in Fort Worth that makes a better Reuben than Varsity Tavern. Photo by Lee Chastain.

Trying to Make Varsity

Can this new West 7th gastropub set itself apart from the field?
Brian Franzman, the chef of Fort Worth’s three-week-old Varsity Tavern, also developed the menus at J. Black’s Feel Good Kitchen & Lounge in Austin and Houston. It’s apparent that Fort Worth’s new sports bar/gastrop...

The Dive’s Roc-A-Fella oysters were sweet and tender. Photo by Kayla Stigall.

Dive on In

Chef Josh Rangel’s new eatery is not your average fish fry.
Perched on the edge of the traffic circle at Camp Bowie Boulevard and Alta Mere Drive is an unassuming little building with a better-than-average pedigree: It’s the former home of Charlie’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers and, mor...

If you overcook your own food at Jin Korean BBQ, you can always go back for more. Photo by Lee Chastain.

Cook it Yourself

An unconventional Arlington eatery scores points for flavor and volume
Jin Korean BBQ is tucked into a strip mall on one of the busier parts of Cooper Street in Arlington. But once you’re inside, you’d swear you could see the cook-it-yourself restaurant from space. There’s more neon lining t...