Eats

Vera Cruz-ing

Skip the Tex-Mex and go for Nuevo Leon’s seafood
Peter Gorman
Nuevo Leon’s owner Roberto Gonzales was born and raised in Monterrey, Mexico, an industrial city in the northeastern part of the country that prides itself on its inland cuisine, from frog legs to chicken parillas.


Herd Mentality

In his new book, Robb Walsh dispels many popular notions of cowboy cuisine, starting with the cowboys themselves.
Dan McGraw
Cookbooks still sell pretty well, but the business has changed mightily in recent years.



Effortless Elegance

Olenjack’s Grille delivers exciting flavor combinations in a sophisticated-casual atmosphere.
Jimmy Fowler
Open barely a month in Arlington, Olenjack’s Grille, the namesake of renowned ex-Reata and Chisholm Club maestro Brian Olenjack, has found its identity in a very short time: hearty Southwestern- and Southern-influenced creati...


A Front

Piccolo Mondo Italian Restaurant may look like just another strip-mall retailer, but it’s all bid’ness inside.
Jimmy Fowler
Movies and television have put a heavy burden on Italian restaurants, specifically on what we expect from their ambience.



Steaking a Claim

The force behind Bennigan’s and Steak & Ale introduces a new concept in upscale comfort food in a primo spot.
ANTHONY MARIANI
One of the hottest pieces of retail real estate in town is at the intersection of West Freeway and Hulen Street, in the shopping complex that includes Central Market, Borders Books and Music, and other nationwide boutique compa...


Fill ’Er Up

In the heart of the Stockyards, the recently opened Bubba Jean’s delivers big home-cooking for big appetites.
Jimmy Fowler
The Stockyards is the city’s internationally celebrated headquarters for all things dogie-roping, plug-chewing and, for better or worse, tourist-watching. But there’s a genuine Cowtown aesthetic there. You just have to look...



Simple, Not Stugotz

No surprises here, but the newly opened Eagle Grill does Italian fare justice.
Peter Gorman
You like Italian food, si? Of course, you do — you’re not stugotz or anything. But what kind? I mean, there are all sorts of varieties, from the fancy Milanese stuff that’s heavily dependent on seafood to rustic, Tuscan f...


Phuoc in the Box

In the middle of Fast-Food Freeway, a tiny diner offers a taste of Haltom City, er, Vietnam.
ANTHONY MARIANI
Let’s get one thing straight. The best Vietnamese food in town is in Haltom City, our Tarrant County neighbor to the east. It has a stretch often referred to as Little Vietnam. That said, there are joints closer to home that ...



Dang Good

For 23 years, the South Arlington restaurant Ba-Lehas been a Vietnamese cuisine star.
Brian Abrams
Danny Dang has worked in the family’s business since he was 11 years old. He’s 30 now, and the hours he spends at his mother and father’s café haven’t shortened — these days, they’re even longer.


Spaghetti Western

In a cheeky setting that’s half-Cowboy half-Italian, Giovanni’s, in the Stockyards, serves up hearty, solid traditional Italian fare.
Jimmy Fowler
The weekends in the Stockyards after the Fort Worth Stock Show and Rodeo closes in early February have that lonely the-traveling-carnival-has-come-and-gone feel, with small groups of bored-looking teenagers and even more bored-...