Eats
Chow

Foodies in the Movies

CHOW, BABY
Chow, Baby often sees its life as a movie. Imagine Mystic Pizza if it was told from the food critic’s perspective instead of that of the waitstaff and restaurant owner. I often find myself doing that on Chow, Baby outings: Th...


Elote co-owner Cynthia Loeb has a plate of fresh Tex-Mex and some ’ritas with your name on them. Adrien P. Maroney

Elote Is Elite

This little eatery specializes in semi-healthy Tex-Mex.
LAURIE BARKER JAMES
The words “gluten-free” and “Tex-Mex” combine in a way that makes your average cowboy grimace. In reality, Mexican cuisine, like most Western regional cuisines, is heavy on green veggies, beans, and corn, all of which l...



chow

Judging the Wild Side

Fort Worth Weekly
My Eastside friends always complain about how there are no restaurants in their neck of the woods. It’s true that neither Tim Love nor Jon Bonnell is likely scouting Eastside locales as a place to expand, but there’s got to...


The steaks are cut on-site — and then cooked to order, like this bone-in rib-eye. Lee Chastain

Chop House Delights

Despite its kitschiness, this steakhouse is decidedly au courant.
LAURIE BARKER JAMES
Chef Kenny Mills made himself at home in Arlington with Chop House Burgers, which started as a hole-in-the-wall near University of Texas at Arlington only a couple of years ago. Now Chop House has taken over half of the strip m...



chow

The Old (Grill) Is New Again

CHOW, BABY
The young are so helpful. Chow, Baby’s teenage nieces, for example, are always willing to point out how uncool and out of touch I am. Sadly, instead of sending me to the latest chic dive, their comments only drove me deeper i...


As this blackberry cobbler indicates, dessert at Copper Creek is a hit. Lee Chastain

Rustic Grace

Copper Creek gets decent marks overall but fails at labeling.
EDWARD BROWN
A lot of Tarrant County restaurants claim to be “Texas fine dining,” and a few of them, like Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine, Lonesome Dove Bistro, and Reata Restaurant, actually make good on it. At other places, the bar isn...



Chow

Cross Her Palm with a Burrito

CHOW, BABY
Chow, Baby recently went to a psychic to get my tea leaves read. I’m not a big believer in the paranormal, astrology, voodoo, or any other manner of mumbo jumbo. But some friends decided to make a night of it, so I went along...


Don Mario’s serves up their Ultimate Fajitas (left) and a platter of catfish and shrimp. Lee Chastain

Lighter Delights

Don Mario’s piles on the flavor instead of the weight.
JIMMY FOWLER
Even diehard fans of traditional Mexican cuisine will admit the fare tends to be too heavy while also being light on flavor. It’s as if the goal of a typical plate of enchiladas was merely to fill up your stomach rather than ...



Chow

All Glitter, No Gold

CHOW, BABY
Chow, Baby has the attention span of a … what was I saying?  That’s why I almost never go to places that specialize in sensory overload. My food tends to get cold while I stare, mouth agape, at all the blinking lights. But...


Waters’ ceviche trio, with shrimp, striped bass, and ahi tuna, awaits. Adrien P. Maroney

Ocean Breeze

Bonnell’s Waters is a dazzling if occasionally uneven experience.
LAURIE BARKER JAMES
While non-local foodies probably equate our little hamlet with Tim Love, locals know that Mr. Love Shack is far from the only game in town. Since 2001 Jon Bonnell has been wowing palates across the globe with his gourmet rustic...