Eats
Revolver's ceviche courtesy Facebook.

Upscale, Down, Second Time Around

CHOW, BABY
Sometimes Chow, Baby and a restaurant get off on the wrong foot. Both restaurants and food critics are entitled to a bad night every now and then. So I went out on a second-chances round last week, and I’m happy to report tha...


You can order your tacos “trashy,” which means “with Torchy’s delectable queso.” Do it. Tony Robles

Light My Fire

Torchy’s Tacos hits the spot ­ — most of the time.
ANTHONY MARIANI
Some new places just seem like they’ve been around forever. Take Rodeo Goat in the West 7th Street corridor. It’s been open only a couple of months, but it’s already a citywide go-to spot. The same could be said of a few ...



chow

Diving for Dumplings

CHOW, BABY
Not all small-town mom-and-pop restaurants are created equal. Chow, Baby is often guilty of romanticizing such joints. I can’t help it. I just imagine that some nice family is living out their restaurateur dream: Grandma is i...


Like the veal panache, the flavors are bold and the fare heavy at Alba’s. Tony Robles

Alba’s, Simply

Forget sleekness and fusion. Quaint and traditional are where it’s at.
JIMMY FOWLER
With so many restaurants striving to be sleek and contemporary in their ambience and food, Alba’s Italian Restaurant stands out for its willingness to be quaint and kitschy. This family-owned establishment off Loop 820 in far...



Courtesy Fireside Pies Facebook

Pin the Tail on Grumpy

CHOW, BABY
Chow, Baby grew up with traditional pizza party birthdays, so I’ve always associated the doughy, gooey Italian dish with sleepovers, presents, and all-around good times. Now that I’m an adult, pizza is something that Chow, ...


BFF mixes French/Vietnamese, sushi, and some Korean and Thai — the menu might actually be too big. Tony Robles

BFF!

You’ll be best friends forever after one visit to this pan-Asian bistro.
LAURIE BARKER JAMES
BFF Bistro offers an eclectic mix of Asian cuisine while also housing an on-site bakery and — wait for it — a disco lounge. On a recent Saturday afternoon visit, said lounge, near the front of the restaurant, was particular...



Chow

Beyond the Burger Basics

CHOW, BABY
First let me say that I worship at the counters of cafés like Fred’s and Kincaid’s. Fort Worth has great burger joints, most of which seem to have been here since the Eisenhower administration. Basic burgers are great, and...


Ryan’s has a smoked salmon sammy and house salad — and a cup of Joe — wih your name on it. Or, at least, their name. Lee Chastain

Gourmet Grocer

The Near Southside — finally — gets a deli, the scrumptious Ryan’s.
LAURIE BARKER JAMES
Siblings Brittany and Hunter Ryan grew up on the West Side, and both graduated from New York’s French Culinary Institute. They’ve spent time as chefs in other restaurants –– Hunter has worked at Eddie V’s Prime Seafoo...



Chow

Musical Notes

CHOW, BABY
Chow, Baby keeps a list of restaurants it needs to try. Sounds organized, but it’s not. Here’s a sample of my list-making: Rodeo Goat, Red Door Bistro, eggs, orange juice, toothpaste, and “idea for a TV show: Luby’s Loc...


Kebabs like the Kafta (grilled lamb and beef) dominate Saffron Sky’s menu. Tony Robles

The Sky’s the Limit

With a little help, this new Mediterranean eatery could really shine.
ANTHONY MARIANI
In a small strip mall on Donnelly Avenue, a side street in the shadow of Ridglea Theater on the West Side, there’s a welcome sight for fans of Mediterranean cuisine. The neighborhood already has Hedary’s, a Fort Worth insti...