Eats

On the Street Where We Eat

Chow, Baby
Chow, Baby’s answer to “What would your dream foodie day consist of?” is the same as most everybody’s: Central Market and a zillion dollars.


Nuevo World

If there’s such a thing as progressive Old-World Mexican fare, it’s at Rancherita.
CAROLINE COLLIER
The area north of Hemphill Street and I-20 teems with life these days, boosted by the Gran Plaza de Fort Worth mall and an ever-increasing flow of middle-class immigrants.



What’s in a New Name

Chow, Baby
Chow, Baby has enough trouble keeping track of old favorite restaurants that have closed down and soon-to-be favorites that are springing up without having to keep re-alphabetizing the ones in between.


All That Jazz

Chow, Baby
The latest entry to the pet-peeve list: “upscale,” as in “upscale soul food.” In the year and a bit since Keith Hicks created the marvelous Ovation (6115 Camp Bowie Blvd.), that’s become the media&...



Golden Tee

The club at Tierra Verde goes upscale, with mostly savory results.
Jimmy Fowler
The vision most people have of food at golf courses is usually accurate: burgers, hot dogs, and fries, all overshadowed by a full-service bar.


Charity, Hope, and Faith

Chow, Baby
Restaurant Week, now morphing into Restaurant Three Weeks (several places are offering the $35 prix fixe menu through Sunday; check www.krld.com), has got to be the greatest culinary invention of all time.



Time to Fry

What Flying Fish lacks in adventurousness, it makes up for in diet-killing seafood.
Jimmy Fowler
If you grew up in North Texas, there’s a good chance you’ve been fishing at one of the lakes here. If you actually caught something, there’s an even better chance that you were told to throw it back into the water.


Suthern Star

Chow, Baby
Chow, Baby had that hungry-crabby-crankiness that results when the first lunch place you try is closed because of family illness (get well soon), the second place has new locks on the doors because, according to the landlord...



By George …

The Wooden Nickel’s homey environs may belie its serious homecooking.
Peter Gorman
Wooden Nickel takes the term “family-style” literally — the place is a private house turned into a restaurant by chef and owner Charles Haisler.


Home Is Where the Chow Is

Chow, Baby
It was nice to see the family and all, but Chow, Baby’s weekend home in New Orleans was a bust, foodwise. The best po-boy place in town (make a note: Crabby Jack’s on Jefferson Highway) was closed for summer vacatio...