Eats

A Front

Piccolo Mondo Italian Restaurant may look like just another strip-mall retailer, but it’s all bid’ness inside.
Jimmy Fowler
Movies and television have put a heavy burden on Italian restaurants, specifically on what we expect from their ambience.


Fresh Hell and Good Eats

Chow, Baby
Star India (703 W. Park Row Dr., Arlington) fits all of Chow, Baby’s requirements for great ethnic hideaways: no décor to speak of, at least a few native diners, a courtly proprietor, and tv tuned to an appropriate-langu...



Steaking a Claim

The force behind Bennigan’s and Steak & Ale introduces a new concept in upscale comfort food in a primo spot.
ANTHONY MARIANI
One of the hottest pieces of retail real estate in town is at the intersection of West Freeway and Hulen Street, in the shopping complex that includes Central Market, Borders Books and Music, and other nationwide boutique compa...


Crabs for the Crabby

Chow, Baby
It was a dark and stormy night, a night made for Chow, Baby to cruise along FM 1709 (a.k.a. Keller Parkway and Southlake Boulevard) and bitch about its 12-mile lack of lighting and signage.



Fill ’Er Up

In the heart of the Stockyards, the recently opened Bubba Jean’s delivers big home-cooking for big appetites.
Jimmy Fowler
The Stockyards is the city’s internationally celebrated headquarters for all things dogie-roping, plug-chewing and, for better or worse, tourist-watching. But there’s a genuine Cowtown aesthetic there. You just have to look...


Welcome Back, Olenjack

Chow, Baby
Yay, the long-awaited opening-night dinner at Olenjack’s Grille in Lincoln Square, Arlington. On the way over, Chow, Baby rehearsed some fairness principles: This isn’t the Chisholm Club.



A Slav to Stuffed ’Shrooms

Chow, Baby
Thankfully, the beloved understands that temporary crushes on waitstaff and chefs (hi, Ian! … OK, that one has proved to be not so temporary) are just flotsam of Chow, Baby’s job.


Simple, Not Stugotz

No surprises here, but the newly opened Eagle Grill does Italian fare justice.
Peter Gorman
You like Italian food, si? Of course, you do — you’re not stugotz or anything. But what kind? I mean, there are all sorts of varieties, from the fancy Milanese stuff that’s heavily dependent on seafood to rustic, Tuscan f...



Calibrating for ’Cue

Chow, Baby
With so many great barbecue places around, why on earth was Chow, Baby chowing down at Railhead Smokehouse (2900 Montgomery St.)?


Phuoc in the Box

In the middle of Fast-Food Freeway, a tiny diner offers a taste of Haltom City, er, Vietnam.
ANTHONY MARIANI
Let’s get one thing straight. The best Vietnamese food in town is in Haltom City, our Tarrant County neighbor to the east. It has a stretch often referred to as Little Vietnam. That said, there are joints closer to home that ...