Eats

Brothers Grim

Dan McGraw
A lot of chain restaurants spend billions of dollars and countless hours on trying to replicate distant and sometimes not-so-distant lands. Razzoo’s sells New Orleans. House of Blues sells Chicago. Olive Garden sells an Itali...


Bore Mi

BRIAN ABRAMS
There’s a lot to love about Mi Cocinita. Killer patio included, this Tex-Mex eatery housed in what used to be a garage apartment is no bigger than a walk-in closet — a little cramped but totally homey. Owners Joe and Virgie...



Shiny Happy Eaters

Chow, Baby
Chow, Baby likes shiny things but hates Denny’s, so it was glad to see a certain gleaming pre-fab building change ownership a few months ago.


Great Escape

BRIAN ABRAMS
The West Side is full of Euro-influenced bistros: La Piazza, Escargot, Saint-Emilion, Bella West. Thing is, they’re all a little — how you say? — snooty as all get-out.



Peanut Butter Jelly Time

Chow, Baby
Here’s a question (notice Chow, Baby didn’t say it was a good question): When you were a little kid, what did you imagine lunchtime was like for grown-ups? There you are in the lunchroom, stroke of noon, pulling a h...


Soul in Six

BRIAN ABRAMS
Drew Thomas first opened his greasy spoon almost 20 years ago, in Forest Hill, where his smothered pork chops and spicy fried catfish were enjoyed by the locals but not by enough of them to support the business. He moved west, ...



Being and Munchingness

Chow, Baby
Chow, Baby’s father used to play a mind game he called Argentina. He’d begin it with “Name a country that starts with A.” His prey would answer, “Okay, Argentina.” “No, that’s not...


From Russia With Love

Jimmy Fowler
Though the proprietors of Taste of Europe are from Russia, they don’t seem to have any trouble getting the hang of this capitalism thing. “Shop while you eat!” gushes the sign outside this combination restaurant, tchotchk...



The Blame Game

Chow, Baby
One might think, given how picky Chow, Baby can be, that it requests kitchen do-overs all the time. But no, not so much. A consequence of eating at so many funny-smelling restaurants is that Chow, Baby often winds up with a pla...


Food

BRIAN ABRAMS
Since her childhood, Donatella Trotti has earned her keep in the kitchen. In post-war Varese, Italy, where Trotti was born and raised, she and her sister would join their mother in the kitchen to help make large servings of las...