Well, it was close. Paris Coffee Shop ran neck and neck right up to the last bite. Both bake homemade pies every morning that are just about as heart-stopping good as they come -- creamy chocolate, peanut butter, coconut, and banana (all with meringue that reaches the ceiling), and dark, rich, chewy pecan. The contest then had to turn on the crust, something that Southern women understand. (There was one fading belle who said the only things she ever liked in her whole life were sex and pie crust.) By that criteria, Mary's flaky, mouth-watering, fall-apart-tender crust was the winner. It takes special hands to make such crust -- can't overwork it -- and the cook in Mary's kitchen knows her craft.

Readers' Choice: Randall's, 907 Houston St, FW

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