This sparkling sensation is a run-away winner. Bobby and Franco Albanese, for years the names behind Ruffino's on Forest Park Boulevard, set up this champagne-based restaurant half a block from Bass Hall in November. Not only was the "relax and enjoy life" concept brilliant, but the cuisine is stupendous. Try the smoked-shrimp lasagna with fontina cheese and red bell peppers. Or the oyster and artichoke soup with fennel, which gives a unique, tangy taste. The special one night last month was an imaginative mixed grill with a filet mignon, rack of lamb (four ounces each), and venison carpaccio. The décor is all silver -- like champagne -- and blue, and the service friendly and approaching knowledgeable.

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