It is said that, just a few years ago, Marsala wasn't worth going to. If so, things have changed considerably. Not only are the wine list and service first-rate, the items on your plate will have you moaning with pleasure, and the prices are not much more than half of what you'd pay at the fancier places in Fort Worth. Take the dish called Surprise D'Artichokes, for example. Folks, for $7.95 you get this sizable appetizer of artichokes stuffed with grilled salmon topped with melted herb cheese. The Linguine Alle Vongole -- linguine with clams -- comes served with the little critters encircling the plate. It's beautiful and tasty, served with Provencale Tomato Sauce or a seafood cream sauce, for $13.95. That's another steal, folks. The Beef Tenderloin Bardolino is a plate of medallions braised with mushrooms, garlic, and sweet onions, served in Provencale Bardolino Wine Sauce. You won't get anything close to this anywhere else for $21.95. Marsala also does all the small touches right, serving sorbet before the entrée and preparing its trademark Caesar salad (and chopping up the anchovies, egg yolk, lemon, Romaine, and garlic croutons) tableside. Bananas Foster is another tableside show. Gentlemen waiters in full livery (at least four of whom sport ponytails) and heavy curtains that block out even the hot western summer sun lend a certain Sopranos feel to the place.

Readers' Choice: La Madeline French Bakery & Café

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