Maybe we're too impressed by the lineup of dessert wines, but this 16-year-old French-Italian restaurant has a lot more than ports and sherries. For starters, consider the two full pages containing 46 bottles of American reds, including two from Texas. You've got your whites and rosés too, of course, your French and Italian, from $5 to You Can't Afford It. The list of by-the-glass vintages is long, which is always helpful. The dessert items come in a different book, which includes cognacs and Grand Marnier. The wine service matches the list. We went once just to have dessert drinks and were treated with utmost respect.

Readers' Choice: Grape Escape

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