Pho Nam makes noodle soup easy for the beginner. Pho is broth, thin noodles, and meat with a side platter of sprouts, basil, jalapeno, and lemon to be added to taste; the "Lean and Tender" section of the menu offers meat choices of steak, lean brisket, and chicken. Advanced pho-ers may add tendon, tripe, and fatty brisket. Pho is a meal in itself -- the "small" bowl is huge -- but do save room for spring rolls or shredded-pork rolls. Pho Nam's iced condensed-milk coffee is as good as it gets, and the jelly-pearls Thai tea is a special treat.

Readers' Choice: Tuhai Restaurant

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