Chow, Baby
melts

Frost Bites

CHOW, BABY
As I peered into the nearly empty dining room of Steel City Pops (908 Currie St.), a new gourmet ice-pop joint in the West 7th area, I couldn’t help but wonder why the owners would open the place just in time for winter. Nort...


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What if There Is No Tomorrow?

CHOW, BABY
It feels like I’m in the movie Groundhog Day almost every time I step into an Italian restaurant in this city. There are of course some notable exceptions, like Aventino’s Italian Restaurant (5800 Lovell Ave.), Piola Italia...



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Gleefully Free of Gluten

CHOW, BABY
Another year, another diet craze that restaurants rush to accommodate. A few years ago the Atkins diet was all the rage. Menus all over the country highlighted dishes that fit its low-carb criteria. Then it was trans fat, and l...


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Too Righteous

CHOW, BABY
People normally just buy a Porsche when they hit a midlife crisis. Maybe that’s not what’s driving Chef Lanny Lancarte, but he has made some serious changes in his professional life. He closed one of Chow, Baby’s favorite...



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Miracle of the Tweens and Fishes

Fort Worth Weekly
Two of my dreaded … that is, my beloved nieces, ages 10 and 12, came over to Casa de Chow, Baby for dinner recently. Their mother, my dear ol’ sis, has the two monsters well on their way to childhood diabetes, thanks to a s...


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Happy Trails

CHOW, BABY
Chow, Baby’s pal from Los Angeles came into town for the Lone Star Film Festival and wanted a guided tour of the “real Fort Worth culinary experience.” Of course, having done this dance before, I know she really meant: ...



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Let the Lobster Roll Down …

CHOW, BABY
The best lobster roll I ever had was in Kennebunkport, Maine, in 1990-something. During one of the summers of my misspent college years, I was visiting a friend in Boston who told me about the delish sandwich he’d discovered....


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Give Me Liberty — or a $1.99 Taco

CHOW, BABY
I felt terrible for the kids standing in the median holding promotional signs for Sombrero Mexican Food (201 W. Rosedale St.). It was one of those warm fall afternoons that seemed all the hotter after the tease of a few days of...



Vietnamese Steamed Pork Buns Banh Bao

Buns, Actually

CHOW, BABY
When I first saw the pork buns ($7.95) at Pho District (2401 W. 7th St., Ste. 117), I was sure I’d made a terrible mistake. The bun itself looked like a Dr. Scholl’s insert for an orthopedic shoe. But with the predictabilit...


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Tempest in a Soup Tureen

CHOW, BABY
The recent bizarre drama centering on Dallas Morning News food critic Leslie Brenner got Chow, Baby to thinking about the relationship among restaurants, their customers, and news outlets. The rise of social media, celebrity ch...