Balqees Coffee, 2041 U.S. 287 Frontage Rd, Ste 103, Mansfield. 225-278-3083. 8am-10pm daily.
Until a recent, long-overdue dermatologist appointment, the only reason I’d ever been to Mansfield was to play paintball in the late ’90s, and neither trip suggested the city was hiding anything worth driving back for. It’s not personal. It’s just far. Or at least it feels that way. Maybe that’s why a Facebook ad for a Yemeni coffee shop out in Mansfield hooked me. If I was going to brave the vehicular action thriller that is southbound 287, it might as well be for something I can’t find at home, right?
I live in east Fort Worth, so obviously, a trip to Balqees Coffee isn’t exactly the same as boarding a plane at DFW and emerging a day later on the other side of the world. But sitting in Balqees’ airy, softly lit environs and taking that first sip … I felt transported, forgetting for a little while that just outside the door is a Five Below and an Olive Garden, and a Best Buy, a Cinemark, and the thousands of cars trying to get to the Sam’s Club across the road.
Like any good coffee shop, Balqees’ atmosphere is as much a draw as the coffee. Here, the scent of Yemeni coffee steaming with ginger and cinnamon, the lo-fi oud melodies drifting from the speakers, the blend of sophistication and warmth from the shop’s decor — they all made me a little envious of someone who lived close enough to while away an hour or two over a jubani (light roast with husk, cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, $5.50) or a sana’ani (medium roast Yemeni coffee, cardamom, $5.50) and a book.
Named for the Queen of Sheba in Islamic tradition, Balqees offers a nice variety of espresso drinks, teas, juices, and even an Oreo milkshake ($7) that looked amazing, but I think the Yemeni specialties of coffee and tea are why you’d make the trek. Flavored predominantly with cardamom, cinnamon, and ginger (like the aforementioned jubani) and made with meticulous care, these drinks are themselves a flavor journey, the kind that inspires you to update your passport. Or at least become acquainted with the wide variety of African, Asian, and Mediterranean restaurants found throughout Haltom City and Arlington. And Mansfield! Also Mansfield!
Peruse these drinks before going with your usual, though I’d forgive you for picking a saffron latte (double shot, saffron, honey, $7.95) or Spanish latte (double shot, condensed milk, $7.85), two items I had difficulty passing up, but ultimately, I ordered a mufawar ($5.50), a medium roast coffee with cardamom and cream, pairing it with an olive croissant ($3).
Photo by Steve Steward
The cardamom’s citrus-and-pepper notes were bold and bright, and when the cream quickly mellowed the roast’s natural tang into something round and lingering, the cardamom’s subtle sweetness appeared like a dove after a dramatic afternoon storm. The cream wasn’t too heavy, and the spice didn’t overwhelm. It was perfectly balanced: vibrant up front, mellow in the middle, and a tangy finish I thought about all the way home. It’s the kind of drink that makes you wonder what else you’ve been missing out on. Sure, you get cardamom in a drink at Starbucks, but I can tell you that I’ve never thought about a chai latte after I’ve tossed the cup in the trash. Balqees’ mufawar is a drink I’ll probably still be thinking about when I’m 80.
Besides its beverage program, Balqees also offers pastries and other sweets — pistachio and honey are prominent flavors. It’s open until 10pm as well, making it a perfect after-dinner spot, even if you’re eating dinner all the way out in Fort Worth. Balqees offers a great coffee experience, and if you’re an aficionado of global flavors, it’s a must-stamp on your coffee passport.
