Grand Entrance

Ko Thai, 725 W Magnolia Ave, Fort Worth. 469-978-0744. 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri-Sat.

When it was announced that the sister location of Bedford’s much-lauded Koracha Thai would open in the new building opposite Walloon’s on the Near Southside, a lot of folks’ eyes bugged out. The renderings depicted a flashy, posh retreat, something definitely not in keeping with the low-key norm of the neighborhood. I admit I was captivated as well. And, as promised, the swoon-worthy grandeur of the new Ko Thai knocked me out once I stepped inside.

In front of the charcoal-hued brick building sits comfortable outdoor dining with an upstairs patio overlooking Magnolia Avenue. This is a much-needed option that instantly sets Ko Thai apart from other area restaurants. The interior is flat-out stunning. Terra-cotta clay color dominates, rising from floor to ceiling. Two massive warrior statues positioned as pillars support the upstairs dining area. The two figures also maintain watch over the downstairs dining room that shares space with the bar. Flickering lights hang at different lengths high overhead, and miniature table lamps ensure an intimate experience when the sun lowers.

At the time, reservations were not offered, and while they are now via KoThai.co, a guest and I chanced it during prime dinner time. During our wait at the bar, we got familiar with the food menu and some cocktails — despite Ko Thai’s meekness. We expected a choice selection of Thai-inspired drinks capitalizing on ingredients such as basil, ginger, and lemongrass. What is offered are standards (espresso martini, mojito, Old Fashioned). Considering the edginess of Ko Thai’s style, this came across as too safe.

Since we had already carved out a path through the food menu, we were ready to try a mix of the recognizable and the adventurous. We started with smoked salmon salad rolls and cream cheese wontons, set among familiar appetizers like skewered-chicken satay, Thai eggrolls, dumplings, and curry puffs filled with minced chicken, sweet potato, and seasonings reminiscent of Indian meat pies. Every audible bite from the salad rolls’ vegetables paired with the silky texture of smoky salmon dipped in Thai peanut sauce or house Sriracha was freshly flamboyant. The bow-tied wontons were a wrecking ball to the mouth as well. Although filled with imitation crab, they fooled us delightfully. These bulbs of creamy warmth slapped.

We couldn’t resist ordering one of Ko Thai’s soups even if current temps reminded us that soup season is in the far distance. We selected the tom kha between the tom yum and wonton, and a cup was enough to split. We stayed basic, choosing chicken as our choice for the main filler, though tofu, veggie, steak, shrimp, and salmon are all available. Coconut is the core flavor difference in the tom kha compared to the basil-laced tom yum, and the tropical milkiness nicely balanced out the cilantro-onion-lemongrass trifecta commonly found in Thai dishes.

Replacing liquid with something heartier, we skipped the soupy curry and familiar fried rice options (basil, yellow, and Thai) for the tropical chicken stir fry. Gently breaded and tossed in a sweet pineapple sauce, the poultry was served with veggies that should have had more griddle time, as the pineapple slices came complete with grill marks as a statement. Served with a side of jasmine rice, this entrée could easily satisfy two.

A low-bar standard for me is that if a restaurant has mastered the most simple or common dish associated with the culture, then hopefully all else would ring true to custom, so we ordered the Pad Thai with shrimp that shared menu space with flat-rice noodle pad see ew, pad kee mao, and egg noodle lo mein. This ended up being the only hiccup we experienced. The flavor was in line with expectations, but the rice noodles were chewy, dry, and hard from being overcooked. Ko Thai quickly swapped out the dish, and while the replacement was better, it still hinted at those characteristics. Regardless, it won’t prevent return visits.

The final page of the menu is humbly titled Our Pride, meaning it’s full of Ko Thai’s signature dishes that sit a notch above the rest. Deep-fried red snapper, served with a variety of veggies and lettuce to form your own wraps to dip into a sweet chile sauce, will be found here, as will the marinated and grilled ribeye steak that comes with similar accoutrements. Flying high from our dinner so far and wanting to land on a high note, the duck basil ruffled our feathers — but in a good way. Even flash-fried, every medium-rare slice was tender, and the spatter of Thai basil sauce accompanied by the crunch of bell pepper and crispy fried basil brought it all to full attention.

Ko Thai is a superb addition to the Near Southside’s dining scene, offering an upscale atmosphere with quality cuisine without upscale prices.

Ko Thai
Salmon salad roll $12.95
Wontons $11.95
Tom kha (cup) $8.95
Tropical chicken stir fry $15
Pad Thai $16
Duck basil $22