The thing about pizza is that doing it well is not as easy as it seems. The dough, which is tricky, has to be perfect — seriously, no flaws — and that also goes for the sauce and, most importantly, the bake. These are all facets that should be mastered by all pizza chefs but that somehow elude some of the cooks at Parry’s Pizzeria & Taphouse (9601 N Fwy, Fort Worth, 682-564-1176). First, my family and I have eaten delicious, scrumptious pizza at the North Fort Worth branch of the Colorado chain. Just the other day, my wife and I tore up Parry’s Veggie District (mushrooms, black olives, green peppers, red onions, tomatoes, and minced garlic, which we held). The mélange of chewy dough, creamy cheese, and tangy sauce with all the vegetables cooked wonderfully disappeared from in front of us in a matter of minutes.
Where Parry’s misses is on its 9-inch $5.99 happy-hour pies. My family and I have been a few times, and every single cheese version has arrived at our table somehow simultaneously burnt and undercooked, nearly inedible. This is a shame because Parry’s happy hour (3-6pm Mon-Fri, all day Sun) rocks. For the same price as the 9-inch pie, Parry’s also serves some really good cheesy bread and Parm bites, and a six-piece of boneless wings goes for $6.99. For $4 from the bar are pints with second pours for only $3 and Parry’s “signature” beers. Spirits and margs are $5.
What explains the 9-inch fails? Could it be lesser ingredients? I asked the plagiarism machine.
Yep, HAL 9000 said in his soothing voice. Lesser ingredients can definitely result in lesser pizza.
No one’s accusing Parry’s of using inferior ingredients on its happy-hour pies. We’re just saying that the oily, rubbery, burnt aspect of the cheese, the brittle consistency and flavorlessness of the dough, and the sweetness of what little sauce is offered make for a pretty terrible product. My family and I will be totally fine skipping Parry’s happy-hour pizzas to save a few bucks and just ordering off the menu. Maybe that’s been the plan all along. Crafty, Parry’s. Very crafty.
Inspired by the tasty regular-menu pizza but dreadful happy-hour pies at Parry’s, and since our 28th? 29th? Annual Best Of issue is coming up, I got to thinking about pies worth the calories and the cash. Based on our past few Best Ofs, I’m here to recommend a few spots that will not disappoint, starting with Lucile’s Stateside Bistro (4700 Camp Bowie Blvd, Fort Worth, 817-738-4761), a ’25 Best Of critic’s choice.
“Ooey, gooey, and oh-so toothsome,” we wrote, “they come in a variety of specialty pies, and you can build your own — we go for the smoked gouda with caramelized onions. Two words: Dee. Lish.”
Another ’25 critic’s choice, Napoli’s Italian Kitchen & Market (309 S Main St, Grapevine, 817-310-0385) “also does ooey and gooey well. There’s enough cheese on the Quattro Formaggi to build a life-size model airplane with.”
Rounding out our ’25 critic’s choices, Serious Pizza (2728 W 7th St, Fort Worth, 682-348-2482) serves slices bigger than your family’s heads put together, and “its lovely cheesiness paired with toppings of your choice and superiorly tasty dough goes down smooth anytime, not just after all the nearby watering holes close.”
Courtesy Canva
With crackling, chewy crust, melty and plentiful cheese, and red sauce with that subtle zing that the chains can only dream of, ’24 critic’s choices Hysen’s Nizza Pizza (401 University Dr, Fort Worth, 817-877-39000), Kabylo’s Pizza by the Slice (8700 N Tarrant Pkwy, Ste 101, NRH, 817-849-2600), and Perrotti’s Pizza (3021 Greene Av, Fort Worth, 817-927-2209) do New York-style ’za right.
Another ’24 critic’s choice, Zoli’s Pizza (3501 Hulen St, Fort Worth, 817-402-0050) “wants you to know that you can take your authenticity and shove it up your wazoo. While the joint does all the traditional pies right, it really shines with somewhat goofy though still delicious concoctions, including the Honey Bastard (hot soppressata, bacon marmalade, habanero honey, mozzarella) and the CBR (roasted chicken, bacon, pickled jalapeños, ranch swirl, everything-bagel crust), and the Prince Rogers (mozzarella, herb mushrooms, zucchini, roasted tomatoes, pesto mascarpone). In the words of the Purple One, ‘Uhhh-ahhh.’ ”
All these pies stand out, but for the record, the best pizza in town possibly resides beneath my roof. My 14-year-old son is an excellent amateur baker, and his dough, including a whole wheat version, is *chef’s kiss*. Maybe someday you’ll be able to try it. Until then, lean on our past Best Of issues and the one coming up on Sep 20 for our — and your — choices for best pizza in the 817.
