Neo-Soul

Big Will’s Soul Food, 5400 Woodway Dr, Fort Worth. 682-224-2828. 11am-9pm Tue-Fri.

Aside from a popular Mex-Mex hole in the wall, an enduring Indian restaurant that has changed names and ownership several times in several years, and a Domino’s Pizza that will probably still be there long after human civilization has destroyed itself, residents of the sprawling southwest Fort Worth community known as Wedgwood don’t have a lot to speak of when it comes to dining out close to home.

A short history lesson: Once one of the premier neighborhoods in Fort Worth, the planned community of Wedgwood, which has over 5,000 homes, was founded in the 1950s, with its founders placing full-page ads in the Star-Telegram proclaiming to new homebuyers, “You’ll live happier in Wedgwood!” The community boasted at various times a country club, a bowling alley, and a popular movie theater well into the 1980s and ’90s before experiencing a decline as the population aged and families moved away.

These days, the community, which, full disclosure, includes yours truly, is experiencing a resurgence as families seek to plant roots in one of the few centrally located neighborhoods of Fort Worth that can still be called affordable. Its many parks, large lots, tree-lined streets, and active neighborhood associations and clubs are a big draw, but the major flaw is its lack of walkability — not to mention local businesses to support.

So, when the signage went up for a new barbecue and soul food restaurant in the Woodway shopping center that marks the de facto entrance to Wedgwood East, heads were understandably turning.

Big Will’s Soul Food had its grand opening on January 26, and the once-deserted parking lot of the small strip has been bustling ever since. I know because I live across the street. A quick scurry across a two-way street is all that stood in my way from heaping portions of Southern favorites. Speaking of the street, a curiously specific sign under the ordering counter advises, “Leave your drama in the middle of the street. Let the cars and trucks run over it.” Only good vibes will be tolerated, thank you very much.

Brand-new signage and huge lettering on the windows let passersby know what to expect, announcing that ribs, brisket, sausage, burgers, tacos, and more will be “smokin’ with flavor.” Inside, lacquered wood tables and low track lighting help transform the small dining area that was once a vegan bakery into a homey smokehouse. Behind the counter, it was easy to see that Big Will’s is a true family affair. Along with Big Will, easily identifiable by his stature and the fact that he was calling the shots, a small but mighty crew clearly consisting of husband, wife, extended family, and kids worked together to package up a steady stream of to-go orders. A young man of about 15 deftly took our order on an iPad before directing us to take a seat. It’s the kind of place that instantly makes you feel good to see where your money is going.

Big Will’s started as a barbecue food truck that regularly made the rounds at area school events. I opted to stick with familiar barbecue favorites, ordering a two-meat plate of sliced brisket and sausage, with potato salad and collard greens. My husband picked fried chicken, mac ’n’ cheese, and green beans from the soul food side of the menu.

After a relatively short wait, our plates were delivered — reusable plates and silverware but the kind made to look nice, not dissimilar to the dinnerware we used at our own barbecue-catered wedding. They were sturdy enough to contain the large portions of comfort classics.

My brontosaurus-sized brisket slices were not the tenderest this town has to offer, but they made up for it with smoky, beefy flavor and just the right amount of seasoning. Same for the sausage, which lacked a bit of the snap I’m used to but tasted heavenly. My collard greens, slightly salty, made for a delicious foil to the rich meats, although the potato salad could have used a little more oomph.

My husband’s fried chicken consisted of two huge wings and a thigh, served aside two heaping mounds of homemade mac ’n’ cheese and stewed green beans just like my mama made. The chicken was unbreaded, more like a “regular” KFC order versus the “extra crispy” my husband is used to, but he didn’t complain, as the meat was moist and tender and played nicely with the peppery seasoning in the bird skin.

It’s important to feel pride in one’s community, and there’s nothing quite like being able to step outside your door and support your neighbors’ business, especially in the form of generously portioned, lovingly served comfort food. Soon I’ll be popping across the street again for one of Big Will’s numerous $10 lunch specials, which include assorted sandwiches (brisket, rib, sausage), loaded nachos, chicken wings, fried fish, and more. Even if it weren’t basically in my front yard, I’d be encouraging others to do the same. As we covered in last week’s Black History Month issue, you can never have too much soul food.

Big Will’s Soul Food

Two-meat plate $22
Fried chicken plate $13