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World of Beer bartender Hays has a pint with your name on it. Photo by Lee Chastain.

As the craft beer movement barrels on, it’s not just the liquid goodness that’s getting a makeover locally.

The fare at gastropubs is also transforming. As the recently opened World of Beer proves, area diners are no longer limited to selections of simply burgers and fries. Beer-infused dishes are showing up on menus all over town.

One of WoB’s most intriguing appetizers is the German pretzel. The warm, soft Christmas wreath-sized dough knot was chewy on the inside with a pleasantly buttery outside enlivened by rock salt. Instead of one of several varieties of mustard to accompany the pretzel, spend the extra two bucks for the beer – cheese. Creamy and slightly tangy, the melted cheddar was pure magic.

Next up were the chipotle-porter chicken wings. The porter wasn’t readily apparent in the flavor, but the big bits of bird had a glaze that was smoky, sweet, and spicy but not overbearing. They paired well with the blue cheese dip.

The WoB entrée with the most beer flavor was the Chimay burger. Served in a toasted brioche bun, the half-pound patty cooked to order (medium, in this case) and was topped with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, melted Chimay Grand Classique cheese, and a homemade Chimay sauce, whose softly bitter nuttiness blended perfectly with the savory mushrooms, onions, and cheese.

The side of coleslaw — gussied up with kale and green apples — was slightly bitter but pleasant.

The only entrée that wasn’t infused with either beer or liquor was the Black & Blue, though the menu recommends pairing the flatbread pizza with a doppelbock. Loaded with tender cuts of steak, caramelized onions, grilled mushrooms, gobs of blue and mozzarella cheeses, arugula, and drizzles of balsamic vinegar, the mouthwatering pie was a mind-blowing mélange of sweet, savory, and earthy.

The meal ended with WoB’s Irish cream cheesecake. Featuring a thick black graham cracker crust, rich and dense filling, and caramel sauce on top, the New York-style dessert oozed with boozy Irish cream, making every bite decadent and heavenly.

World of Beer certainly lives up to its name. Though tap count and volume do not a great gastropub make, this place offers 50 drafts and an impressive (excessive?) array of nearly 500 bottles. Located on the western edge of the West 7th Street corridor, WoB has a simple, clean look: brick walls, faux wood floors, dozens of high-tops, booths, and (slightly wobbly) tables, and a large wraparound bar with a glass-door refrigerator. There’s also a small patio with a few long benches.

From a single gastropub in Florida eight years ago, World of Beer now has 30 locations across the United States. Though the West 7th corridor seems to consist only of transplants, WoB does a good job paying its respects to local brewers. Martin House Brewing Company, Panther Island Brewing Company, Rahr & Sons Brewing, and Revolver Brewing Company are among the North Texans represented.

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World of Beer
3252 W 7th St, FW. 682-708-7021. 11am-12am Sun-Thu, 11am-2am Fri-Sat. All major credit cards accepted.

World of Beer
German pretzel     $8
Chipotle-porter wings     $6
Black & Blue     $13
Chimay burger     $12
Irish cream cheesecake     $6.50

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