When chic Dallas coffee house and late-night breakfast joint Café Brazil came to town a few years back, I was excited. There weren’t many options for after-bar eggs and coffee outside of a handful of 24-hour chains and Ol’ South Pancake House (which was hilariously sketchy back in those days). None of those options was even remotely cool, certainly not Deep ELlum hip. But Brazil’s western outpost flopped. Whatever cache the place brought over from Big D was squandered in its calamitous first few months. Wrong orders, long ticket times, terrible service, and cold coffee plagued the West Berry Street location. How it lasted at long as it did is anyone’s guess.
A couple of weeks ago, Taste-N-See Chicken and Waffles (2880 W Berry St, 817-841-1870) slid on into Café Brazil’s abandoned TCU-area spot after the soul food eatery shuttered its original location on Alta Mesa Boulevard in the Southwest part of town. For a second time, I was excited about a new breakfast-y joint at that location.
I have no doubt that co-owners DeMarcus Davis and Anita Wilcox will get the food and service right, but banking on TCU bros and sorostitutes to understand the magic of soul food seems a risky proposition. For the co-owners, this is truly a homerun swing. If it works out and the kids dig it, the son-and-mom team will be swimming in their Scrooge McDuck money bin. If it doesn’t, they will have closed a restaurant in a sleepier part of town with nothing to show for it.