Once starved of Asian dining options, the Near Southside is experiencing a resurgence in them. Led by the now-shuttered Eazy Monkey and thriving Teddy Wong’s, both opening within weeks of each other in 2023, the trend was followed by Paco’s transformation into Shogun Taqueria and Ko Thai, both opening this spring, plus Yoichi, an omakase hand roll concept that will be rolling soon at the former Shinjuku Station site.
In South Main Village, or SoMa, Ichiro Izakaya fills a gap by grilling small-plated Japanese cuisine where Black Cat Pizza once slung pies. Stepping inside, one is met with vibrance. Japanese tapestries hang throughout, and colorful paper lanterns of various shapes and sizes drop from the ceiling, providing atmospheric life. Almost restaurant-length, a sitting bar faces a bustling kitchen team as they cook over fire, and in the rear dining room, an oceanic mural encompassing two walls painted by the owner and family beams.
An Old Fashioned with Suntory Japanese whiskey was easy on the palate, amped up by the smooth sweetness of fermented koji, while the Saiten mojito was light in flavor from replacing white rum with sake-like shochu. It needed a flavor nudge from additional muddled mint. A similar muteness was experienced with the umami martini, which also delivered a subtle shochu fruitiness in lieu of vodka.
An aspect of izakaya that makes it great for date night, a group, or a unique dining experience is the interaction among guests. The menu is engaging and plentiful, appealing to every food preference, which kept my guest and me volleying ideas about what to order. As most selections are two to three bites each, this leaves ample room to be adventurous. Or gluttonous.
The rendered fat clung to the side of the meat and added a velvety richness to the peppery lamb chop. Photo by Cody Neathery
From the starters, seven pieces of spiced tempura-fried lotus root were mild and slightly sweet. Think: leeks, chestnut, or jicama. But scooped in the accompanying seasoned mayo, they clicked.
The next two options took us by surprise. The seared salmon melted in the mouth, while the buttery tenderness of the beef yakiniku (translates as “grilled meat”) with wine garlic sauce was one of the most memorable bites of the evening. While the seared dumplings were a burst of herbaceous flavor, the house-made egg rolls filled with pork cuts and a pink aioli with ketchup leanings gave the yakiniku a hat tip. Sautéed squid was unavailable because the supplier reportedly could not meet the restaurant’s standards, reflecting the chefs’ commitment to quality.
Ichiro manages to make you feel like you’re in a tiny Japanese cafe hidden in a major downtown. Photo by Cody Neathery
From the grilled chicken, or yakitori, portion of the menu, the simplistic negima chicken thigh begged for a little seasoning, but the hatsu (chicken heart) was a rich morsel of deliciousness.
Onto the ocean, where the salt-cured chunk of salmon was fresh and bold. Adding a squeeze of lemon and a touch of wasabi lifted it with zest and spicy heat, and the succulent scallops, bathing in garlic ponzu butter, rivaled our favorite dishes.
From the farm, we went HAM with the Japanese-style pork sausage: a basic version of a fileted little smoky with hints of soy marinade. The kamo negima was grilled duck breast with scallions sandwiched between the poultry blocks and a line of plum sauce to add low-key sweet to the savory. Unfortunately, the beef tongue was unavailable, so we made the move to the grilled lamb chop. The rendered fat clung to the side of the meat and added a velvety richness to the peppery chop.
Mixing up the grilled eel, poached egg, and sushi rice made for delectable bites. Photo by Cody Neathery
For the conclusion, we couldn’t get enough of the duck, and there happened to be tsukesoba noodles served with a flavorful broth of duck meat and mushrooms for noodle dipping — possibly the best in recent memory, and we drank the broth from the cup to finish.
With little breathing room left, we couldn’t pass on the grilled eel of the unadon served atop a poached egg and sushi rice. Shining from a hoison-glazed surface, the eel alone was a delectable, fatty piece of fish, but when combined with the egg and vinegary flavor of sticky sushi rice, it was superb — especially with the surprising complexity of a tichiko peach cocktail.
Ichiro Izakaya
Grilled eel and rice $12.75
Beef yakiniku $8
Lamp chop $6.25
Duck breast $6
Chicken heart $3.75
Mojito $14
Old Fashioned $14
Though light and refreshing, the Saiten mojito left room for more mint. Photo by Cody NeatheryBeef yakiniku (left) and seared salmon prove that presentation is important at Ichiro. Photo by Cody Neathery
