Pick-’em Party

Felina, 401 Bryan Av, Fort Worth. 469-507-8626. 11am-9:30 Tue-Sat. • Pal’s Bar & Kitchen, 5636 N Tarrant Pkwy, Ste 120, Fort Worth. 682-593-0494. 11am-10pm Sun, 4-9pm Mon, 11am-9pm Tue-Wed, 11am-10pm Thu, 11am-11pm Fri-Sat.

Every year for the past 30 or so, we’ve put out a Best Of issue, long before some far less reputable 817 media outlets started doing the same. Part of the fun of writing the blurbs, which we do as a team, is trying out new places. Best Taco? Best spa? Best car mechanic? I dunno. Let’s go commit some journalism. As a critic who picked two juicy categories in particular this year — best burgers and best pizza — I felt I needed to give some new spots a try. I’m still undecided about one of them.

For one new burger spot, I recently grabbed my 14-year-old son, a burger master not only on the noshing end of them but grilling them himself, and took him to a new place out by our house beyond The Wall, a.k.a. north of Meacham Airport. Pal’s Bar & Kitchen hasn’t been open long, and to be honest, I don’t see how it’s going to stay open that much longer. The food itself isn’t the problem (more on that later). It’s the location. Off North Tarrant Parkway en route to Haltom City from Keller-esque Fort Worth, the place sits in a small strip mall set way back off the road, whereas nearby Slim Chickens essentially jumps out at you and stops your car. Pal’s may be the local tavern that people within this godforsaken, soulless hellscape of strip malls needs, a little slice of city living whose closest approximation is a 20-minute drive away or longer, if you want to get technical — bar-bars do not exist outside downtown areas. Suburban “bars” all must serve food, and while Pal’s could do a better job with atmo and quality, the service was exceptional. My son and I were greeted by a young bartender/waiter as if we were old friends. He seemed genuinely glad to see us, and though Pal’s accommodated only a few other customers at the time, I refuse to ascribe his attentiveness and kindness to boredom. This dude was just good at his job. Point: Pal’s.

I only wish the burgers were a little better. Arriving as perfectly shaped circles, they tasted fine and were cooked to order but lacked any real juiciness or semi-crumbly or handmade texture or feel. Not sure if a burger that doesn’t conjure summertime grilling qualifies as a “best.” Then again, that’s not what Pal’s is here for. With a bona fide bar counter and an extensive menu that also encompasses pasta and Tex-Mex, Pal’s is here to give the Keller bourgeoisie a taste of gritty, vibrant city living. I’ll have to go back during a big game and let you know if Pal’s succeeds at bonhomie.

For one of a couple new-to-me pizza establishments, the fam and I traveled to Felina in SoMa on the Near Southside, and let me tell you, Felina’s pizza tastes phenomenal, with emphasis on “tastes.” Zesty, chewy, and gooey, with top-quality ingredients, a Felina pie is well worth the gourmet price tag. My wife, son, and I tried three different specialty versions. As my boy’s order arrived with succulent, mouthwateringly grease-filled pepperoni coins and my bride’s margherita brimmed with zesty punch, I still dream about Felina’s Hot Mess. The blend of salty soppressata and fior di latte mozzarella pecorino combined with sweet San Marzano tomatoes and hot honey, plus tempering basil and whipped ricotta, did the Tarantella with every single taste bud in my mouth. Unto death will the Hot Mess and I part.

The (minor) problem is the floppiness. Don’t @ me. I lived in New York City for half a dozen years or so back in the day. I’ve had a million floppy slices that you fold longways and eat. And I’ve enjoyed most of them. Still, I wasn’t a big fan of the form then and — 30 years later — am still not wholly sold on it now. My stance does not mean I’m pro-cardboard cuts that don’t flop at all. The sweet spot is somewhere in the middle, and I don’t think that’s too much to ask, especially for a Best Of.

In terms of flavor and authentic style, Felina is near the top, based on the Hot Mess alone, so this is going to be a tough Top 3 Best Pizza award for me to decide on. I’ve got two of the picks nailed down. Still semi-looking for a third at this point, with Felina in the lead and not just for flavor — located off South Main in the cozy space formerly occupied by Funky Picnic, the joint has a groovy Old World atmosphere with lots of natural lighting and is family-friendly and hip at the same time. The service on our visit was friendly but a little distracted, and ours was one of only a few tables.

Our 31st or 32nd Annual Best Of issue hits the streets on Wed, Sep 30, and the interwebs not long afterward. Try to act surprised when you read my picks.

Felina
Hot Mess $23
Pepperoni pizza $19
Margherita pizza $18

Pal’s Bar & Kitchen
Cheeseburger $12.99