Looks like Salvadoran cuisine is the new black – at least for Chow, Baby, who loved everything about La Campiña Salvadoreña (1115 E. Pioneer Pkwy., Arlington) when it visited a couple of months ago and is eagerly looking forward to checking out Gloria’s as soon as the Dallas-based micro-chain settles into its new Montgomery Plaza location.

The middle ground between La Campiña’s hole-in-the-wallness (it’s inside a small grocery store) and Gloria’s hipness is Reyes, which recently opened at 1712 N. Sylvania Av. Though the building has the aura of former used-tire store, the restaurant is simple, pleasant, and ultra-clean. Big tv, too.

Maybe El Salvador doesn’t have that many indigenous dishes, because all three restaurants also offer many Mexican standards. Actually Chow, Baby didn’t notice the Salvadoran corner of the Reyes menu until it had already eaten a plate of middling-good cheese enchiladas ($7.29) and a great fish taco ($2.75), ordered some tamales to go, and was asked which kind it wanted. Well, gee, that would have to be those large Salvadoran-style tamales ($1.95), creamier and juicier than Tex-Mex, with chunks of delicately spiced chicken and potatoes. Unfortunately, by then Chow, Baby had spent all its money (Reyes is cash only) and couldn’t afford any pupusas, the queso-and-bean-stuffed corn tortillas that serve both as Salvadoran street food and as Chow, Baby’s new favorite snack. Should have skipped the housemade flan (good, but $3.99).

If It Ain’t Broke

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