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You’ll be tempted to wolf down Lizzano’s Chicken Jerusalem, but take your time. Tony Robles
You’ll be tempted to wolf down Lizzano’s Chicken Jerusalem, but take your time. Tony Robles

Most people have their favorite hole-in-the-wall restaurant, whether it’s a roadside barbecue shack, a gas-station taqueria, or the family-owned Italian dining room in the strip mall down the block. Sometimes these places knock you out with sumptuous menus and inventive cuisine built on time-tested recipes. Other times, they’re just OK.

Sharing a shopping center with a Chinese bistro, a donut shop, a nail salon, and a 7-Eleven, Lizzano’s Pizza falls somewhere in between those two extremes, with the vibe of one of those places that your family has eaten at for years. Its appeal is fast, friendly service in a pleasant atmosphere that hits all the hallmarks of a little Italian joint without straying into kitsch. The white tablecloths under Plexiglas tops are the right amount of fancy and casual, which is also an apt description of the menu. The joint offers some signature items for the more adventurous eater, and the usual Italian offerings are as solid as a Frank Sinatra Christmas CD. There’s not a lot to knock your socks off, but what Lizzano’s does, it does pretty well.

While the name on the storefront advertises pizza, Lizzano’s menu holds a whole lot more, including hot and cold subs, a hefty array of traditional Southern Italian pasta dishes, and some tantalizing seafood specials.

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