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The word “mishmash” comes to mind when pulling up to Nicky D’s. For one, the ranch-style building has a bright red sheet metal roof. A defunct fuel dispenser indicates that the space was once a gas station, and a large hand-painted outdoor board sports a peace sign, a heart symbol, and burger image in pastel colors.

Indoors, it gets only quirkier. Meals are ordered through a kitchen-facing window, with a big overhead sign that reads, “Waitress Station.” The ceiling is strewn with Christmas lights, and the walls are almost completely plastered with photos of customers, vinyl records, and Nicky D’s merchandise (ball caps and t’s) for sale. The décor makes for a fun and lively atmosphere.

Nicky’s menu offers a smattering of Americana classics. The bacon cheddar fries came with a generous pile of thinly sliced bacon. Despite what the World Health Organization might say, the sight of all that cured meat goodness would set anybody’s mouth to watering. The fries were a little limp, and the melted cheddar could have been sharper. But after topping the appetizer with sliced jalapeños and ranch dressing, it turned out to be a gut-bustingly delicious experience.

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The chili cheese hotdog had potential but didn’t deliver. Each bite of the juicy, oversized frankfurter exploded with spicy beef. Unfortunately, the drab chili and nacho cheese toppings might have passed muster at a high school football game but were a bit of a letdown for an entrée.

Things livened up with the barbecue bologna sandwich, though. The thick pork patty was moist and had a golden-brown fried crust that made each bite crisp. The meat basically tasted like a hotdog and was topped by a surprisingly spicy smattering of barbecue sauce. Optional toppings of freshly diced white onions and sliced pickles enhanced the texture nicely.

 

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Nicky D’s

1605 Bus Rte 1187, Crowley. 817-297-0333. 10am-8pm Mon-Thur. 10:30am-8pm Fri-Sat. All major credit cards accepted.

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The Reuben left little to be desired. Packed between two thick, buttery pieces of rye toast was a mountain of peppery pastrami entwined with crisp sauerkraut, pungent Swiss cheese, and creamy gobs of Thousand Island dressing. It was a greasier take on the New York City classic but well worth a try.

The steak sandwich should have been called the Philly cheesesteak, but who cares? It was awesome. There was little seasoning. The slightly sweet caramelized onions, buttery portobell0 mushrooms, melted American cheese, and juicy beef did all the talking.

Nicky D’s offers several flavors of Blue Bunny ice cream. A homemade scoop would have been better, but each bite was buttery with generous chunks of Oreo cookies.

From beginning to end, the service was friendly and prompt. After seeing what Nicky’s had to offer, it’s easy to see why this restaurant has become a popular staple in the community.

 

[box_info]Nicky D’s
Barbecue bologna sandwich     $4.95
Bacon cheddar fries     $6.99
Cup of ice cream     $1.49
Steak sandwich     $7.95
Reuben     $8.50[/box_info]

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