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The tacos are the main attraction at Los Taco H’s. Photo by Edward Brown.

Local taqueria fans may not agree on much, but most would posit nothing but praise for Los Taco H’s, the Mex-Mex restaurant famed for its food truck and original Eastside location of East Rosedale Street. The Weekly’s food columnist Chow, Baby gave a favorable review of the taqueria two years ago (“ Los H’s Worth Finding,” Sept. 2018). Now, the popular restaurant is serving primo tacos near TCU through a newish, second brick-and-mortar location.

The taqueria features a covered patio with several seats in addition to a large indoor seating area. An indoor banner boasts several signature juice options, so I sprung for the Detox: a light and refreshing blend of green apple, cucumber, celery, kale, ginger, spinach, and lemon. The drink was made to order. Green apple, celery, and lemon were prominent, juicy flavors.

Los Taco H’s
3025 Cleburne Rd, FW. 817-585-3522. 7am-10pm Mon-Thu, 7am-11pm Fri, 10am-11pm Sat-Sun.

 

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Los Taco H’s offers two low-carb options: keto tacos and lettuce wraps. The keto taco (which comes with one of several meat options) has a taco shell made from baked cheddar cheese. The flavor of the condensed cheese overpowered the tender cuts of carne asada but made for a delicious experience. The lettuce-wrapped carne asada was a delight but a bit hard to handle. The iceberg lettuce leaves weren’t totally up to the challenge of holding the juicy beef, grilled onions and bell pepper, cilantro, and Monterrey jack cheese together. After my first attempt fell apart, I opted to eat the dish like a meaty salad.

Three tacos, each served with toppings on the side, were tiny but mighty. Several hot sauce options and a pickled medley of red onion, cabbage, diced tomatoes, and cilantro livened up the succulent meaty morsels. The barbacoa was densely packed, juicy, and a bit gamey (a possibility with goat meat). The cactus came finely diced and had a texture similar to boiled green beans and a mild natural acidity. Some taquerias try to retain the natural crispness of pork rinds (chicharron). The fried pork fat was a bit soggy given the rich and spicy chipotle sauce.

The gordita asada was a humbler version of the typically gargantuan variants found in Tex-Mex joints. Densely packed cuts of carne asada mixed with pinto beans made for a savory and delicious filling inside the masa coating. A side of tangy sour cream brightened the somewhat subdued dish.

The standout dish was the Torta Cubana. The sammy came served between two hefty telera rolls that mercifully condensed when squeezed, sparing me from having to unhinge my jaw to take my first bite. Breaded pork cutlets were covered in a rich chipotle seasoning that permeated the ingredients. Slices of grilled hot dogs, mixed among the pork, were unexpected but enjoyable. A generous slathering of mayo and slices of avocado added a creamy contrast to the breaded meat while sliced red onions added just enough zing to check off all the sensory checkmarks.

For those (like myself) who enjoy living near Central Market and Fort Worth’s urban core for convenience reasons, Fort Worth’s best taquerias typically require a decent drive to the North Side and South Side. With the second brick-and-mortar location of Los Taco H’s, the TCU area has an authentic Mexican dining experience in its own backyard. The keto taco and juices may be part of an effort to appeal to a yuppier clientele, but the fare is every bit as amazing as the original locale.

 

Los Taco H’s
Torta Cubana $10
Lettuce wrap w/carne asada $9
Keto taco $2.64
Brisket taco $1.89
Cactus taco $1.89
Chicharron taco $1.89
Gordita asada $2.99
Detox juice $4.99

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