Nikuya’s Golden Bite and Cowboy Kiss makimono mingle with churtoro nigiri and hamachi sashimi.
Photo by Cody Neathery
Nikuya Rooftop at The Sinclair, 512 Main St, Fort Worth. 817-697-7777. 5pm-10pm Mon-Thu, 5pm-11pm Fri-Sat.
The buildings in Fort Worth sparkle brightly from the view atop the 17th floor of the Sinclair hotel’s sushi bar that bears claim to the most elevated restaurant in town. The experience and quality match that status. And for a reasonable price.
Helmed by Chef Alvin Chik, who built his background in San Franciso’s high-end omakase scene, Nikuya (“butcher shop” in Japanese) is an intimate 16-seat sushi and omakase restaurant operated by DRG Concepts, who also oversee the lobby’s Wicked Bar and subterranean steakhouse, Wicked Butcher. Although seating is limited inside, there are tables on the patio. When the temperature plays nice, we recommend taking advantage of the vantage point.
The tiny, moody interior reflects the hotel’s modernist décor, with a black marbled bar hosting globe lamps and Art Deco light fixtures illuminating the emerald walls. My guest and I were promptly seated by a hostess and greeted with two glasses of bubbles as is customary at Wicked Butcher, followed by a light, crispy renkon, or lotus root chip, as a crunchy vessel for a dollop of avocado spread topped with salmon.
Taking care of priorities, our eyes navigated to the sake portion of the cocktail menu, though there are cocktails that capitalize on Japanese whisky, tequila, and rum with Asian flair. We tried the Blue Hue sake with a bright aroma from green apple, melon, and white flower and minuscule sweetness from the fruitiness and savory undertone of rice and umami. Next, the sweeter, unfiltered Momo nigori sake based in rich flavors like banana, coconut cream, pineapple, and rice shared prominent ingredients with the pina colada, and if you know me, it’s on par for my beverage of choice. This sake was decadent and velvety, and it lingered.
The tuna tartare was satisfying and robust. Photo by Cody Neathery
The appetizers included green apple, wasabi, black tobiko, and cucumber-dressed oysters and Hokkaido scallop crudo consisting of orange, watermelon radish, and serrano, but we had our eyes on the tuna tartare and salmon crudo.
The latter arrived cleanly sliced, layered in a bed of creamy yuzu Leche de Tigre sauce, which originated from the Nikkei people, descendants of Japan who migrated to Peru. It’s a fusion of traditional Japanese cooking methods with native Peruvian ingredients. The Leche de Tigre citrus base of yuzu and lime combined with aji chiles, red onion, garlic, and cilantro, then emulsified with soy sauce, ponzu, and fresh ginger, was divine when joined with the salmon. The addition of avocado, cucumber, and cilantro on top of the fish positively added to its body.
The tuna tartare was as satisfying, coming with Fresno chile, avocado, wasabi tobiko, and rice crisps that gave the fish texture variation. Both dishes were robust.
Pleased with the starters, we moved onto the handroll section. We took the server’s recommendations.
The Rich Daddy, which my date prefers in more ways than one, was exceptional: chopped toro, the prized fatty belly cut of tuna, with a shiitake-truffle mix. Simple and elegant.
Since snow crab season is winding down, most catches are flash-frozen at sea to maintain flavor, but the Crabby Hands was still buoyant. The yuzu miso butter and lemon really encapsulated the roll.
We snatched two chutoro, or slightly fatty tuna nigiri, with the succulent meat draped over the rice that dissolved in our mouth with a buttery zest.
Wanting a polished palate after our rice-based items, we leaned into the Hamachi, a yellowtail sashimi that delivered a refreshing yet mild fish profile, rejuvenating our senses.
After short deliberation, we set our hooks into the Cowboy Kiss and Golden Bite makimono, two of Nikuya’s more popular rolls.
Nikuya’s salmon crudo was divine. Photo by Cody Neathery
Silky salmon lay across the compacted rice uramaki-style (inside-out) of the Cowboy Kiss. Garnished with toasted sesame seeds and threads of radish, it had an interior of avocado and fried salmon skin which provided a raw and fried compilation that was delicate, crunchy, and tangy with the yuzu sauce.
Nori seaweed was wrapped around seasoned sushi rice of the Golden Bite. Decorated with micro greens, cilantro, and crackling puffed white rice pearls, it overflowed with yellowtail and avocado. The maki was artfully surrounded by dots of citrusy and spicy yuzu kosho and rich, savory yuzu miso, striking a balance between both condiments.
Though many fear both heights and raw fish, don’t let the location or cuisine scare you from trying one of Fort Worth’s best and most romantic restaurants.
The tiny, moody interior of the 16-seat space reflects the hotel’s modernist décor, with a black marbled bar hosting globe lamps and Art Deco light fixtures illuminating the emerald walls. Photo by Cody Neathery
