Quality ’Cue in the ’Burbs

Lil JJ’s Smoke House, 9321 N Fwy, Fort Worth. 817-615-9460. Noon-7pm Sun, closed Mon, 11am-8pm Tue-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri-Sat.

Not sure why — maybe my chronic misanthropy — but every time I watch football on TV and catch a closeup of an offensive lineman, I immediately think, “That guy probably really loves barbecue. Gosh, I bet he can put away the ribs and brisket. His tray probably weighs 10 pounds.”

And so on, which is not only unfair to him — some people are naturally not small — but also to a cuisine I love so much, that we all love so much. Since “healthy” barbecue remains beyond the reach of modern science and technology, the key is to chow down on ’cue only sparingly. With costs skyrocketing on everything, including restaurant food, “sparingly,” for my family and me, has been easy.

What has been making it even easier is distance. As big BBQ fans, my 14-year-old and I try to keep our consumption to about once a quarter. It hasn’t been a problem because we live in the chain-laden wilds of North Fort Worth and the 40-minute roundtrips to town and back for the good stuff stretch the fuel budget — avoiding 35 for the side streets just elongates our time in the Rogue and on the road. The conversation’s great, but: hunger pangs.

Unfortunately, the boy and I have just discovered quality, independent barbecue by our house, and while our bellies are happy, my wallet — and our digital scale — are not amused.

Located in a strip mall off 35N in the sprawling knot of recliners, mattresses, jewelry, kitchen appliances, and chain restos that is Presidio Towne Crossing, Lil JJ’s Smoke House stands out as a beacon of backwoods-Texas barbecue in the heart of gleaming Sprawlsville.

Beyond the glass storefront doors awaits a small, clean, narrow space with a room-width counter, where you order, plus a micro-bar opposite the condiments table. Assorted photos cover the walls. Among the pics are several of the restaurant’s namesake. Lil JJ, one of married co-owners John and Brandi Berry’s sons, died last year at 20 from a fentanyl overdose. The smoke house is the Berrys’ way of keeping their son’s memory alive.

Lil JJ worked alongside his folks at their business’ previous incarnations across North Texas, including the beloved and much ballyhooed Berry Best BBQ in North Richland Hills. He would be proud of his parents’ new work. Based on the ribs and brisket alone, Lil JJ’s Smoke House demands a drive from anywhere in North Texas. On all our visits, the ribs have been meaty and tender with a hearty, traditional, well-smoked flavor. The brisket sings. Soft, juicy, and with just the right amount of tasty exterior char, it’s done perfectly. The accompanying homemade Boom Sauce is smoky and semisweet and works best when only kissing your bites of ribs and brisket, which underlines just how good each item is on its own.

You also need only a smidgen of sauce for Lil JJ’s peppery sausage and the moist sliced turkey that rivals Grandma’s on Thanksgiving.

And the chopped brisket goes boom on its own. On our first visit, the staff gifted some to my son and me. Sweet, meaty, and tender, it disappeared like candy.

The sides we’ve tried also hark back to downhome cookouts. Texas Monthly raved about the Berry Best Beans, and we agree. Infused with barbecue sauce and loaded with ground beef, they’re classic baked beans but denser and more flavorful and a meal unto themselves. The mac ’n’ cheese comes on creamy and gooey, and the zesty coleslaw bursts with piquant freshness.

The service has been prompt and friendly to the point of downright coziness. Ask for a to-go container, they’ll rush around the counter to give you two. More Boom Sauce? They’ll dispense it into a cup for you, put a lid on it, and hand it to you with a smile. Craving a beer to wash down all that smoky goodness? They’ll hand you a cold, frosty one in return for only a cash tip.

Maybe the best part, Lil JJ’s Smoke House respects the harsh economy. Your choice of rotisserie chicken, turkey, or sausage with two sides and Texas toast runs only $21, while similar combos with ribs or brisket are $23. A two-meat plate is $24, and a three meat’er goes for $25. That’s the price of two martinis at any DFW watering hole these days.

Lil JJ’s also serves an assortment of offensive lineman-friendly “deals.” The Mini (your choice of 2 lbs. of meat and two large sides) is $45, while $105 gets you the Big Deal (your choice of 4 lbs. of meat, four large sides, and four desserts).

All this delicious food at all these low prices, and my son and I will be trying out for the Dallas Cowboys in no time.

Lil JJ’s Smoke House
Sliced brisket (half pound) $16
Pork ribs (half pound) $17
Two-meat plate $24
Three-meat plate $25
Berry Best Beans (small) $3
Brisket mac ’n’ cheese $12