Anyone who hasn’t been to the Stockyards in a year might be surprised to see that Mule Alley is no longer a parking lot. The long and narrow-ish space between the historic mule barns is now a bustling development full of new restaurants, bars, and retail spaces. Some businesses like Avoca Coffee Roasters and Cowtown Winery are well known to locals, while others like Provender Hall and recently opened Sidesaddle Saloon are the respective ventures of local restaurateurs Marcus Pasley (Piattello Italian Kitchen, Clay Pigeon) and Sarah Castillo (Taco Heads, Tinie’s Mexican Cuisine).
Like nearby Shake Shack, the Biscuit Bar serves the Stockyards’ masses. On a recent visit, most of the customers were families. Co-owners Janie and Jake Burkett, with their elevated take on biscuit sandwiches and tater tots, have hit on the idea that reimagined cafeteria food items and bite-size Southern cuisine options appeal to folks of all ages. The bright, open dining area is highlighted by splashes of yellow. For folks like myself who avoid eating in confined dining quarters, the layout allowed for ample social distancing.
Besides biscuits and tots, the restaurant sells salads, brunch-friendly cocktails, and kid-friendly options. I started with the B-Bar Burger — a densely packed double beef patty topped with cheddar cheese, onions, dill pickles, and a Dijon aioli sauce. As with the other sandwiches I ordered that day, the scratch-made dough was buttery, pleasantly dense without being hard, and heavenly. Biscuits can be surprisingly filling, I found, as I finished off the last bite. The tart pickles and mustard cut through the meat and cheese with pleasant results.
Two chicken-based options (the HOSS Biscuit and the Hot Hot Chicken) were also winners, especially given the generous portions of juicy bird that were served up. The Hot Hot could have used some more heat, though, given the name. The thickly battered poultry was nicely seasoned with cayenne and black pepper. If you prefer your fried chicken to be a little less fiery, the HO
SS puts the bird first, and the lathering of honey complemented the savory morsels of meat.
At $2.50, the Fully Loaded Tots are a steal. The mound of golden-fried potato nuggets (and house-made ranch for dipping) could easily serve two or three adults as a side dish. I spent the extra buck for the sweet potato option and was glad I did. Each bite started with the slightly tangy tinge of sour cream and palate-pleasing punch of drizzles of house-made cheese sauce and ended with a softly textured and slightly sweet delight of the root vegetable. The Southern Style option comes drenched in creamy, peppery gravy for an entirely different but equally delightful experience.
On the sweet side, the Biscuit Bar features three desserts. The Biscuit Nuggets (biscuit dough covered in a caramel sauce and powdered sugar) were simple but effective and had the texture and taste of a densely packed donut.
The Biscuit Bar’s well-executed dishes were consistently delicious. For families and tourists exploring the revamped Mule Alley, this restaurant is a worthwhile destination for locals and tourists alike.
The Biscuit Bar, 128 E Exchange Av, FW. 817-912-5922. 8am–9pm Sun–Thu, 8am-11pm Fri-Sat. All major credit cards accepted.
The Biscuit Bar
B-Bar Burger $9.30
Hot Hot Chicken Biscuit $7.10
The Hoss Biscuit $9.20
Fully Loaded Tots $2.50
Biscuit Nuggets $5
Southern Style Tots $6.70